The Hummer

Installing The Chrome Gas Cap Door

The Template

Removing the old bezel was as easy as getting underneath it with my fingers and popping it out. After that, just align the included template and tape it in place.

Drilling the Holes

Using an 1/8 drill bit, drill five pilot holes at the crosshairs on the template then make the holes larger using a 19/64 bit.

The Retaining Clips

Push into place the silver inserts (retaining clips). The instructions said that some taping may be necessary but they just snapped right into place.

Attaching the Chrome Gas Cap Door

The gas cap door has posts on the back that slide into the retaining clips. Push the gas cap until it goes in as far as passible before the plastic fender gives.

Completeing The Attachment

The instructions tell you to use an L wrench to put in the inner holes of the new bezel in order to be able to exert outward pressure while exerting inward pressure on the gas cap door until the rubber seal is touching the fender all the way around. Me, I used a screwdriver.

Finishing Up

When your happy with the seal, you can install the included hole plugs on the inside of the new bezel and attach the original cap. You're done.

The Hood Handles

Romove Plastic Hood Piece

Open the hood and tap the three clips loose located at the rear of the part. Close the hood and pull the part loose. The instructions tell you to use a tool that won't scratch the paint to pry the clips loose. I assert that there is no such tool in existence and simply worked my way around with my fingers and popped each clip loose.

The Hole Template

The over priced kit comes with a hole template that you can just tape in place. You may need to clean the plastic to get the tape to stick.

Drilling The Holes

The instruction called for a much larger drill bit, but I used a 1/4 so the fit would be tighter. Of course this means that you need to drill the holes dead center of the template.

Attaching The Handle

Here is what the under side looks like after installing the hex head screws.

Complete The Project

After attaching both handles just gently tap the unit back onto the hood. You are now ready to gaze at the ungodly expensive pieces of chrome.

The Stereo

Removing The Bezel

My favorite way to remove the bezel is to use two fingers in the accessory power holes and pull up and out. The bottom corner should pop right out. From here, just work your way arounnd the edge to loosen all of the clips.

Unplug The Bezel Wires

If you have an automatic transmission, you should move the shifter all the way back so you can better access the connectors on the back of the bezel. There are eight harnesses in all connected to the bezel.

Removing The Factory Head Unit

Four screws hold the head unit in place. I used a 9/32 nut driver to remove them. There is plenty of slack in the harness to pull the head unit out to remove the two connectors and antenna lead.

The Void

Close Up Of The Stereo Connectors

Factor Harness Mod

This is the only modification to the factory harness required. I used two splice connectors and a piece of red wire (all I could find) to connect the two purple wires in the large connector. I had the standard radio, if you are replacing one of the other units there may be a purple wire on the small connector that needs to connect to these two.

Onstar And Door Chimes

I chose to keep Onstar and the door chime functions so I'm using the PAC-AUDIO OS-2 and CM1 combo, otherwise I'm not sure which after market harness you would need.

Note the volume adjustment hole for the Onstar, mine was turned all the way down so it took me a whille to figure out why there was no Onstar sound.

The Factory Harness Side

These two connectors attach to the factory stereo harness.

The After Market Head Unit Side

Using the wiring diagrams supplied with both the head unit and OS2 I soldered the head unit harness wires to the OS2 harness then used heat shrink for a clean connection.

My Pioneer harness color code matched the OS2 wires perfectly, so I didn't really need the wiring diagrams.

The Metra 99-3304 Install Kit

Notice the perfect match between the install kit and the factory head unit.

Ready For The New Head Unit

Here's what the void looks like with the PAC-AUDIO parts stuffed into place. You may decide to put the parts elsewhere as there is plenty of places to put stuff.

A Closer Shot Of The Stuffing

Antenna Adaptor

I needed an antenna adaptor to connect the antenna to the Pioneer.

The Install

After making the connections, the install kit fits like a glove. I would suggest a full round of testing before re-attaching the bezel.

Completeing The Job

After re-attaching all the cables to the back of the bezel, I started at the top working my way down to press the bezel back into place.

The Finished Product

Bumper Letter Inserts

HUMMER Inserts

If you only buy one accessory for your H3, I suggest this be the one. It adds a lot to the front view.

The Roof Cross Bars

The Contents

This is what I get for $436.00. Seems like there should be more. Oh well.

Getting Started

Use a flat blade screw driver and release the cap at the front end of the roof rails. You will naturally need to do this on both sides.

After the Cap is Removed

Just a look at the void under the cap.

Installing the Cross Bars

Slide the cross bars into the slot on both sides, press the lever inward to lock it down, and pop the cap (see step 2) back in place.

Attach the Locking Cap

I added the stainless letter inserts for some extra bling.

Cargo Area

Stainless Insert for Rear Door

For some reason this is one of my fvorite pieces of bling.

The Full View

Cargo net, cargo cover and cargo mat. Oh yeh, another shot of the stainless insert. I just can't get enough of that one.

 

The Off-Road Light Bar

What Comes in the Box

Remove the Ground Wire Fom Batery

Every electrical job should stat here.

Remove the Bezel for Switch Install

Remove the bezel by using the proceedure located in the stereo section of this post.

Installing the Button Switch

Remove one of the button blanks from the bezel and snap thte butto switch into place. I used the left one because the other is my AUX input for the head unit.

Remove the I/P End Cap

Simply pull straigh out and the clips will release.

Remove the E-Brake Lever

Remove the two philips head screws just behind the handle. Slide the handel back and lower it out of the way.

Remove the I/P Trim Panel

Start at the lower right corner and pull out. Work your way around until the panel is free.

The Hood latch

The instructions did not call for it, but I remove the hood latch as well. The handel just clips on so simply depress the tabs on either side and it will pull off.

Connecting the Switch Harness

Locate the black blunt ended wire located straight up from where your right foot usually is. There will be a red one and maybe a blue one as well. The kit comes with these splice connectors but I will be using solder and heat shrink.

Attach the Console Bezel

At this point you can route the switch harness under the the stereo and put the bezel back in place. Again, there is more detail in the stereo section.

Finishing the Switch Harness Install

Rout the orange and white wire from the switch harness over the steering column support and locate the orange, blue, green and black with white stripe blunt wires. The wires can be found straight up from where your left foot normally is.

Finish the Switch Harness Continued

Connect using the supplied splice connectors (or in my case solder) the orange wire from the switch harness to the orange blunt wire. Connect the white wire from the harness to the black with white stripe blunt wire.

Reattach All Interior Panels

Using the supplied tie wraps yo can tie the switch harness to other wire bundles to keep it up and out of the way. At this point you're finished with the interior portion of the install and can reattach the I/P panel and end cap.

The Light Bar Template

This is what the template looks like. I didn't like the way this was going so I removed it, positioned the light bar where I wanted it and marked the holes with a punch.

Marking the Holes

This is how I marked the holes instead of using the template. Center the bar between the pillars and position front to back where you want it. If I could do it over, I might bring it forward another eighth inch or so... but this looks good.

Drilling the holes

Start by drilling 3/32 pliot holes (six each). My knees were a little shaky here. Take it easy so you don't push through the head liner.

Expanding the Holes

Expand the holes to 1/4 inch and then to 9mm with the bit supplied with the kit. By now my knees are trembling and I'm a little more than nervous. I'm actually a little nervous just looking at the picture.

This is a Riv Nut

Never seen one of these before.

This is a Riv Nut Tool.

OK.

Riv Nut Assy

Screw a riv nut onto the tool and apply lubricant to the areas shown in the instructions.

Insert Riv Nut Assy

Hold the lower 1/2 wrench while turning the uper 5/32 wrench to tighten the the riv nut into place. I didn't have a torque wrench for this application, so I tightened it until I saw the sealant squeez out from between the nut and the roof.

Finish the RIV Nut Install

Before you know it, you're a riv nut expert and have all six installed. My knees stoped shaking about here.

Air Inlet Cover

Remove drivers side air inlet cover by pulling straight up. It may take some effort but it will come.

Removing the Pillar

Remove the two phips screws from under the drivers side weatherstrip.

Removing the Pillar Continued

Pull the pillar forward to release the clips and separate the pillar from the weatherstrip.

Notching the Pillar

Put a notch in the pillar for the wires. I came in about a 1/2" and used a rat tail file for a clean look.

Route the Wires

Lay the light bar in place loosely and route the wires as shown.

Continue the Routing

Route the harness as shown and tie down with suppied tie wraps. Secure the light bar at this point using the supplied six torx head screws with a T-25 torx wrench. Also reattach the pillar.

Attach the Relay

Attach the relay to the firewall using existing stud and palnut supplied with kit.

Another View of the Relay

Connecting Harness Wires

Locate the six blunt wires located behind the drivers side whell well. Tough place to get a good picture. Splice or solder one of the black blunt wires to the black harness wire. Splice or solder orange blunt wire to orange harness wire. Splice or solder black with white stripe wire to white harness wire.

Accessing the Fuse Box (BEC)

Remove batery vent tube (uper left of Picture) and remove the BEC cover. Push on the bottom part of the clips that hold the cover on.

View of BEC cover

Removing BEC

Remove all attached wires from BEC.

Remove the BEC Continued

Pinch the release clips on both sides and pull straight up using the handles located to the outside next to the clips.

The BEC Void

Finishing the Harness Install

Attach the very end of the light bar harness to the receiving connector on the under side of the BEC.

Reattach the BEC

Reattach the BEC making sure the light bar harness does not get pinched and install the included 20 amp fuse. This is the yellow one in the lower left of the picture. Replace the BEC cover and you're basically done.

Finished Product

I really like the unique look this gives to the H3.

Lights On

If the drivers side light looks brighter, thats because it is. I need to check this out.

 

Spare Tire Cover

I thought this added a touch of class.

DVD Player

Post Installation

This is the Audiovox DT102 with optional overhead docking station. This installation is not for the faint of heart.

Open View

This a 10.2 inch sestem that uses a wireless FM modulator. The sound qulaity could be better but it could be worst.

View From the Rear

The docking station comes with a TV tuner integrated.

This is the Cool Part

The DVD player is removable for portability.

Now it's a Desktop Player

Cashmere Electric Leather Seats

What's Going In

I found these on ebay and while drinking over paid for them.

What Came Out

Running The Wires

There a four basic wires for the electric seats, Ground, VCC and two ACC wires for the heaters.

The Drvers Side Harness

Using what I could find at the house I created the larger harness on the left.

Another Look at The Driver Harness

The Passenger Side Harness

The big black harness in th emiddle is the one I added. This was a harness left over from my 2001 Jeep wrangler hard top.

The Drivers Seat

I didn't factory connectors so I had to tap into th eseat harness using my own connectors.

After

I really Dig the Electric Goodings

The Baby Seat Did Not Come With the Leather

From The Back

The Headrest Monitors

Making the Outline

Using the monitor bezel, I trace the outline for the cut.

Making the Cut

Using a brand new razor blade, I make the cut. As usual my knees are a little shaky about now.

The Anchor

I decided to remove a bit more foam and using hot glue I installed a piece of 1/4 " plywood for better anchor support.

Anchor the Bezel

Snap the Monitor in Place

Fsih the cable through a hole in the bottom of the headrest and snap the monitor in place.

A Shot of the Wire

Remove the Old Headrests

Using a nail to epress the clip, I remove the existng headrest.

The Feed

I've already removed the seat back and routed the cable.

The Finished Product

I chose a monitor that automatically powers on when it detects an input signal. I couldn't be happier with the result.

Full Interior Shot

The Head Unit

This is just a shot of the head unit I chose for the multimedia system.